The Stampede Trail Bridge Controversy

The Stampede Trail

The Stampede trail stretches through the Denali Borough in Alaska, consisting of an 8 mile gravel road, followed by a remote and dangerous trail that can only be hiked or traversed with an ATV (all-terrain vehicle) due to the deterioration of the original road. It begins from Alaska Route 3 (George Parks Highway) and ends along the Stampede Creek, near a small airport (Stampede Airport). The remote and primitive trail consists mostly of Tundra and watersheds.

Fame/Infamy

The trails claim to fame comes from the legend of Christopher McCandless. He was a graduate who sought a simple life living off the land, wandering through nature. This brought him to the trail after hitchhiking to Alaska. He set off with minimal supplies in April 1992, set up shop in an abandoned Fairbanks Bus 142 on the Eastern Bank of the Sushana River. His story ended tragically, with his emaciated body being found by a hunter in September, appearing to have died of starvation. His inexperience, lack of supplies and naiveite of the reality of life in the Alaskan Bush unfortunately lead to his demise. After two months of living in the bus he attempted to return to civilisation but was trapped by the Teklanika River which had swelled since his arrival.

“Attention Possible Visitors. S.O.S. I need your help. I am injured, near death, and too weak to hike out. I am all alone, this is no joke. In the name of God, please remain to save me. I am out collecting berries close by and shall return this evening. Thank you, Chris McCandless. August?” – The S.O.S note on the bus

His story has been immortalised in the 1996 “Into the Wild” book and subsequent film. His status has elevated to a modern myth, some idealising his desire for a free and simple life in nature, others seeming him as a tale of a tragic misguided young man. The bus, now a pilgrimage site known as “The Magic Bus” draws hikers and travellers enamoured by his tale. Despite the sad and unfortunate end to his story, I can’t help but feel the same kinship many others do. We all desire that drive to strike out on our own, escape the mundanity of modern life and be truly free. He may be a cautionary tale, but he has my respect and admiration.

Controversy

An unfortunate by-product of the legend of McCandless is the popularity of the “Magic Bus” as a site of pilgrimage. Many follow his path to stay there, and this has lead to numerous rescues being required and a number of deaths, most recently a 24 year old Belarusian women named Veranika Nikanava. She was swept away by the Teklanika River. This horrible incident is the not the first, and likely not the last.

There is now a desire to construct a footbridge over the Teklanika. The movement is led by the husband of Veranika, Piotr Markielau. He states “Making the crossing safer is a social responsibility. It is also a constructive and humane way to learn from people who died there.” However local officials of Denali Borough such as Jeff Stenger fear that “It’ll only encourage more people to go”. The construction of the bridge will by no means nullify all the danger of the route. It will remain a cold and unforgiving piece of terrain with frostbite being a recurring injury to travellers and hikers. Another solution suggested is to simply move the bus to the other side of the river, whoever this is an unsatisfactory solution to many with identify with McCandless. The debate remains open, however I hope a suitable solution is reached.

My Thoughts

This issue hits home as someone who feels the call of the wild and understands that draw to adventure and may one day I may even attempt to reach the bus myself. The pilgrimage isn’t so much about the bus, as it is the story associated with it. I don’t believe that moving it will work, the people drawn to it will simply go to where it was located previously, as that’s where the journey leads. Those drawn to leave civilisation and immerse themselves in the wild, far from civilisation, materialism and the day to day grind will continue to through caution to the wind and recreate famous journeys for their own sake, not for the sake of seeing a particular bus. I think the bridge is a practical solution to ensure the safety of those wishing to take the stampede trail. I agree with Markielau that is the best way to learn from the sad end of those who didn’t make it. A part of me suspects that even with the bridge, some will still cross the river the old way, simply for the thrill and authenticity. To summarise, this journey is not for everyone, bridge or no bridge, people will risk their lives here, and thus it won’t hurt to at least secure part of it, lest there be more casualties.

William Dare

My condolences to the families who have lost people to this trail.

My respect to the adventurers seeking to live life to the fullest. Please be safe and responsible on your journeys.

Sources

https://apnews.com/33921db4324ed0613a120423d04daf6b(Writer Rachel D’oro, contributed to by Mark Thiessen)

https://www.outsideonline.com/2400297/hiker-dies-into-the-wild-bus-chris-mccandless(Writer Eva Holland)

christophermccandless.info.